Posts in Knitting
Nasreen, A Hand Knit Summer Top
Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-12.jpg

I took so long to get this piece online the colourway Honey Butter is now discontinued, sorry!

None the less, Nasreen is still a cute graphic tee for the coming spring/summer season.

I’m sure you’ll be able to find an acceptable palette from the current Cotton Fine range.

Enjoy!

Andrea - Loom + Spindle


STUDIO PROJECT | NASREEN

Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-3.jpg

INTENTION

Knit Nasreen and explore:

  • Working with Cotton Fine

  • Working a garment flat and in pieces

DESIGN

Nasreen was designed by Lana Jois and first published in Pom Pom Quarterly issue Summer 2018. It’s currently available to purchase as a digital download from Ravelry.com.

The pattern is available in 6 sizes with finished bust circumferences of 92.5cm to 141cm (36½'' to 55½''), and has both a long and cropped length version.

I knit size 3 with a finished bust circumference of 111.5cm (44'') in a cropped length.

SKILLS

  • Knitting flat

  • Decreasing

  • Picking up stitches

  • Seaming

TOOLS

  • 2.75mm (US 2) straight knitting needles and one size smaller for ribbing.

MATERIALS

Colour A: Cotton Fine | Honey Butter

Colour A: Cotton Fine | Honey Butter

Colour B: Cotton Fine | Putty

Colour B: Cotton Fine | Putty

PROCESS

YARN SELECTION

  • I went with Cotton Fine as it seemed to have the perfect palette for recreating this look.

CONSTRUCTION

  • The garment was knit flat in pieces.

  • The combination of garter stitch and the decreasing edge stitches ensured the project flew off the needles.

  • On picking up stitches - I’ve always found it a bit challenging. I did a bit of research on how to neatly and evenly pick up stitches before tackling this aspect of the design. I came across a method that I’ve used ever since without fail. It simply requires picking up as many stitches as there are holes in the pickup edge. Then, on the following row make enough decrease stitches evenly across the row to meet the stitch count specified in the pattern. Super easy, nice and neat, no holes!

Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-1.jpg

FINISHING

  • I blocked all pieces before seaming, taking care to match the seam lengths to the pattern and stretch everything out to the correct shape and size.

  • I used a baste stitch to hold and align the pieces for seaming. This kept everything in place while using back stitch to seam the selvages.

Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-7.jpg
Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-8.jpg

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

YARN

  • Cotton Fine creates a wonderfully smooth and drapey fabric. The wool component ensures a bit of elasticity while the cotton keeps the fabric light and cool.

CONSTRUCTION + FINISHING

  • I particularly like the finished edges on the armholes and side vents, they really give this piece a professional finish. I highly recommend blocking the individual pieces before attempting to seam the garment.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Nasreen is a great spring/summer knit. Good to finally master picking up stitches without the anxiety. Cotton Fine knit-up feels durable and should last many seasons to come.

If you would you like to save this project for later add it to your Ravelry favourites HERE.

Nasreen Top in Cotton Fine Brown Sheep Co - Loom & Spindle-10.jpg

Knitting Nasreen in Cotton Fine?

Here’s what you’ll need for the cropped version in sizes 1-6:

Yarn A | Dark colour 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins
Yarn B | Light colour 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins


THANK YOU FOR READING!

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Truss, A Hand Knit Cardigan
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-14.jpg

I knit this piece back in 2019 with the intention to eventually share it with you as a Studio Project.

My memory though is now a bit hazy so my project notes are a little more brief than usual.

I do remember what prompted the cast on though – I think you know the feeling - the one where you just have to have it!

The Truss cardigan is definitely a modern classic with some superb details.

Find out how it knit up in Loch Lomond GOTS below.

Enjoy!

Andrea - Loom + Spindle


STUDIO PROJECT | TRUSS

Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-13.jpg

INTENTION

Knit the Truss cardigan and explore:

  • Working with Loch Lomond Bio

  • Working a garment flat and in pieces

DESIGN

The Truss cardigan pattern was designed by Melissa Wehrle and first published by Brooklyn Tweed in June 2015. It’s currently available to purchase as a digital download at Ravelry.com or BrooklynTweed.com.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes. I knit size 3 with a finished bust circumference of 113.5cm (44.75’’).

Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-17.jpg

SKILLS

  • Tubular cast on

  • Knitting flat

  • Increasing and decreasing

  • Reading charts

  • Working buttonholes

  • Seaming

TOOLS

MATERIALS

 

PROCESS

YARN SELECTION

  • This one was easy; I love working with the light and lofty Loch Lomond GOTS. Gauge was a good fit too. A few projects that were already on Ravelry inspired the final ‘Curry’ colour selection.

Loom & Spindle - Loch Lomond Bio - 01 Curry-3.jpg

CONSTRUCTION

  • The garment is knit flat in pieces.

  • The decreasing rib pattern was engaging, and the body of the cardigan flew off the needles.

    *I know working flat is a bit old school, but I like to alternate my knitting projects between working in the round and working flat. I hold my needles and flick the yarn slightly differently between the two styles, it seems to help reduce my knitting related aches and pains – especially when I’ve been over doing it.

FINISHING

  • I blocked all pieces before seaming, taking care to match the seam lengths to the pattern. I did have to be a bit creative here while the pieces were wet to stretch everything out to the correct shape and size.

  • I used a baste stitch to hold and align the pieces for seaming. This kept everything in place while using back stitch to seam the selvages.

  • And I’ll fess up to one error in judgement. Rather than pick up stitches for the collar using circular needles I cast on the collar band as a separate piece. This got around the fact that I didn’t have circular needles on hand (and my dislike for picking up stitches). It did present problems when it came to buttonhole placement and sewing the band in place. But, with some careful counting and gauge measurements I think I got everything in the right place in the end.

Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-6.jpg
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-11.jpg
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-9.jpg
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-20.jpg
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-22.jpg
Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-23.jpg

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

YARN

  • Loch Lomond GOTS creates a wonderfully light fabric for a worsted weight yarn. Perfect for our Aussie climate. I love all the extra colours you get with the little tweedy flecks.

CONSTRUCTION + FINISHING

  • Little elements like the tubular cast, the decreasing rib pattern and seaming really gave this piece a professional finish. I highly recommend blocking the individual pieces before attempting to seam the garment.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The Truss cardigan is such a classic piece and relatively quick to knit at this gauge. What more can I say!

If you would you like to save this project for later add it to your Ravelry favourites HERE.

Truss Cardigan in Loch Lomond Bio - Studio Project - Loom & Spindle-13.jpg

Knitting Truss in Loch Lomond GOTS?

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Size 1 - 6 Skeins

  • Size 2 - 6 Skeins

  • Size 3 – 7 Skeins

  • Size 4 – 7 Skeins

  • Size 5 – 8 Skeins

  • Size 6 - 9 Skeins

  • Size 7 - 10 Skeins

  • Size 8 – 11 Skeins


THANK YOU FOR READING!

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Spin a Yarn, Knit the Yarn: Grateful Moments Shawl
Grateful Moments Shawl - Journal - Loom & Spindle-16.jpg

Some time ago I was in the mood for a bit of a ‘de-stress’ spin.

To just spin and let a project evolve organically.

I didn’t want to think too hard about all the variables that often stop a new project in its tracks. Things like fibre prep, colour distribution and what the final project might be.

I just wanted to spin a yarn, then knit the yarn.

With this ethos I made my start. Along the way there were some key decisions that helped shape the direction of the project. I’ve detailed this journey below.

Andrea - Loom & Spindle


STUDIO PROJECT: Grateful Moments Shawl

Grateful Moments Shawl - Journal - Loom & Spindle-18.jpg

INTENTION

  • Spin a yarn.

  • Knit the yarn.

SKILLS

HAND SPINNING

  • Fibre preparation

  • Spinning singles

  • Plying

  • Finishing hand spun yarns

KNITTING

  • Casting on/off

  • Knitting flat

  • Increasing and decreasing

  • Reading charts for lacework

TOOLS

HAND SPINNING

KNITTING

  • 3.5 mm (US 4) 80cm circular needles (I used Chiaogoo Spin Bamboo Interchangables)

MATERIALS

100g x Wren & Ollie Superwash Merino/Nylon Spinning Fibre | Colourway, Salt and Pepper

Grateful Moments Shawl - Journal - Loom & Spindle-1.jpg

PATTERN

The Grateful Moments shawl pattern was designed by Sylvia McFadden, first published in September 2015. It is available to purchase as a digital download at Ravelry.com.

PROCESS

THE SPIN

  • On fibre selection - I really just let the fibre choose me. I had a braid of Wren & Ollie Superwash Merino/Nylon spinning fibre that I’d recently acquired. I was drawn to its saturated splashes of pink and attention-grabbing speckles.

Grateful Moments Shawl - Journal - Loom & Spindle-2.jpg
  • Loosening the braid, I made a quick assessment of the dye placement and the hand-feel of the fibres. My notes here - the fibres were next to skin soft with a seemingly unfussy distribution of colour.

  • Determining the spin parameters, I stuck to my ethos of keeping it simple. I opted for a 2-ply construction with a plan to spin the singles at my comfort grist – usually around 30 wraps per inch resulting in a fingering/4ply weight yarn when two singles are plied.

  • Prepping the fibre, I split the tops in two, lengthwise. I set one length aside for the first single and then split the remaining half lengthwise again for the second single. This would hopefully maintain some of the original colour placement but also distribute the colours throughout to produce a variegated and self-striping yarn.

  • I spun both singles on a Louët S17 spinning wheel. I used a yarn gauge to track my WPI and maintain some uniformity between the singles.

  • I kept the finishing minimal plying both singles together directly from their bobbins and finished the skein with a short soak to revive the fibres.

  • The resulting yarn was light and soft with moderate twist. I didn’t measure the yardage but thought it likely to be around 400m at fingering/4ply weight.

THE KNIT

  • Finding a suitable project started with plugging all the parameters into the Ravelry pattern search - weight, yardage and category. Given the yardage and character of the yarn I thought a cowl or small shawl would work well.

  • Wanting to learn more about shawl construction and lacework I went with the Grateful Moments shawl pattern, it already had several projects using hand spun yarns to great effect so seemed like the perfect fit.

  • I didn’t swatch, I just jumped in and knit until I ran out of yarn!

FINISHING

I gave the shawl a short soak in a bath of cool water. I pinned the shawl out on a blocking mat giving attention to opening out the full wingspan and pinning out the selvage to highlight the lace detail.

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

THE SPIN

  • The fine superwash Merino fibre made for an easy spin without having to do too much prep work.

  • Some of the splashy colour within the original braid did dilute with drafting but that was to be expected. I was happy to see much of the pink sections were preserved and come through in the resulting yarn.

  • The S17 is such a solid wheel, I’m finding it just handles anything I throw at it. I love the huge bobbin capacity, there was more than enough room on one bobbin to ply the full 100g!

THE KNIT

  • The pattern was well written and easy to follow. The lace chart wasn’t too complex for a first timer like me.

  • I did bind-off one or two repeats early as I was about to run out of yarn. The resulting size was just right to wear the shawl in cowl or neckerchief style.

  • The hand feel of the resulting fabric was light and next-to-skin soft.

  • The interaction of colour in this piece is just amazing! I love studying the subtle gradients between the layers of pinks, purples and browns.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, this was a very unstructured project. Though, when key decisions were made, I did make them with intention, understanding what impact they would have on the outcome of the project.

Hand spun projects don’t always have to begin with the end in mind. Being led by what you love most – the colours, textures, grist - is just a great way to get started. It also helps me stay interested and see the project out to the end!

Triangular shawls are such a great way to feature variegated yarns I definitely see more in my future.

Grateful Moments Shawl - Journal - Loom & Spindle-16.jpg

THANK YOU FOR READING!

Would you like to save this project for later?

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Tiger Lily, Steeking a Shawl
Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-3.jpg

What is steeking?

If you hang around knitters long enough you may hear this term thrown around, often referred to with some trepidation.

But put simply, a steek is just the process of securing the cut edge of a knitted fabric. This allows the knitted fabric to be worked in the round and cut open without the ends unravelling.

I’ve been curious about this technique for a while and always watch with interest when my favourite YouTubers describe their experiences.

So, when Amirisu Issue 18 dropped in 2019 there was one piece in particular that caught my eye - the Tiger Lily shawl, a triangular colourwork shawl knit completely in the round and steeked!

Here’s my first-hand experience working a steeked shawl!

Enjoy!

Andrea - Loom & Spindle


STUDIO PROJECT: Tiger Lily

Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-7.jpg

INTENTION

Knit the Tiger Lily shawl and explore:

  • Working with Loch Lomond GOTS

  • Working a triangular shawl in the round using steeking stitches

DESIGN

The Tiger Lily shawl pattern was designed by Amirisu Magazine, first published in Amirisu Issue 18: Summer 2019. It’s currently available to purchase as a digital download at Ravelry.com.

Tiger Lily Shawl Kit - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-1.jpg

SKILLS

Casting on
Knitting in the round
Decreasing stitches
Reading colourwork charts
Two colour colourwork
Steeking

TOOLS

4mm (US 6) and 4.5mm (US 7) circular needles.
I used Chiaogoo Spin Bamboo Interchangables.

MATERIALS

4 x Loch Lomond GOTS | Silver (06)
2 x Loch Lomond GOTS | Graphite (15)
1 x Loch Lomond GOTS | Schwarz (05)

*Tiger Lily yarn kits available HERE.

PROCESS

YARN SELECTION

  • The designer uses two colours of similar hue for the main chart, swapping in a high contrast colour for the smaller charts B and C.

  • Colourwork detail can occasionally be lost when adjacent colours are too similar. But I felt the designer had intentionally made this decision for Chart A , the similar hues creating a unique visual texture that adds to the rustic appeal of the piece.

  • With the designer’s colour-play in mind I experimented with a few different palettes. I used Loch Lomond Bio as I felt this yarn would be well suited to recreating the look and feel of the original piece.

  • I thought it would be fun to try a reverse palette of sorts and settled on a grey scale with two shades of light grey and a black for a dark contrast.

CONSTRUCTION

  • Working from the widest side of the triangle to the apex, the shawl began with a cast-on edge of around 300 stitches. This sounded daunting but using a long tail cast-on and counting stitches in groups of 50 as I went, it didn’t require too much effort.

    I used a needle larger than the pattern required for the cast-on edge. This was so I could make the stitches firm and even and provide the required ease for the selvedge stitches.

  • Following the pattern, the piece was joined in the round with steeking stitches added between beginning and end of row markers. This set-up is detailed in the pattern if you haven’t used this technique before.

  • At the beginning and end of each row I caught the non-working yarn in the edge stitches to secure both yarns and avoid any long floats at these points.

  • The colourwork charts are quite detailed and require some focus, particularly chart A with its wide repeat.

  • I worked the shawl as written.

Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-4.jpg

FINISHING

  • I cut open the steek. Before unravelling the steek edges I blocked the shawl by giving it a short soak in a bath of cool water with a drop of wool wash. Pinning it out on a blocking matt, I gave attention to shaping the shawl and aligning the colourwork stitches.

  • To create the fringing, I unravelled the steek stitches and ironed the ends to remove the kinks. I tied off the ends in groups of four, ironing them flat again to align anything that was askew. I carefully cut the fringing to a 2.5cm (1'') length.

Once dry the gauge measured at: 

  • 22 stitches over 10cm (4'')

  • 28 rows over 10cm (4'')

  • Wingspan, 153cm (60’’)

  • The finished shawl weighed in at 256g (9oz)

Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-6.jpg
Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-8.jpg
Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-15.jpg
Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-14.jpg
Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-9.jpg

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

YARN

  • What can I say? I just love this toothy tweedy yarn. Loch Lomond GOTS is built for colourwork and it certainly didn’t disappoint in this piece.

  • On soaking, the yarn bloomed to produce a light and woolly fabric.

  • The vast amount of colourwork creates almost a double layer of fabric, the resulting shawl feeling like a warm hug around the shoulders.

CONSTRUCTION

  • Using steeking stitches for a triangular shawl was quite unique but easy to set up and work.

  • Decreasing on every row and seeing the project shrink as you reach the apex was certainly satisfying.

FINISHING

  • Cutting open the steek to reveal the true shape and size of the shawl (and all my hard work) was certainly satisfying.

  • I was delighted with the fringe. I’m glad I took the time to iron and uncurl the ends to get that perfect straight edge.

  • Blocking revealed a slightly larger wingspan than the pattern intended. But all for the better as it sits perfectly on my shoulders without having to forever readjust it. 

Tiger Lily Shawl - Pattern by Amirisu - Loom & Spindle-1.jpg

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, this is a great design that worked up quickly.

I love the texture that the yarn and colourwork create.

Steeking is definitely a method I’ll incorporate into future projects.

I’ve been wearing this shawl all winter and heading into spring it won’t be leaving the wardrobe rotation any time soon!


THANK YOU FOR READING!

Would you like to save this project for later?

Add it to your Ravelry favourites HERE.


Like to knit Tiger Lily in Loch Lomond GOTS?

 
 
 

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Child and Mam, A Handknit Sweater Project
Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-2.jpg
Smooth seas do not make skilful sailors.
— African Proverb

As a textile maker I love the challenge of a new project - learning about a new yarn or fibre, tackling a new construction method or perhaps just practicing a not so familiar technique.

With its irresistibly cute sailor collar and classic red on white colourwork detail, Junko Okamoto’s Child and Mam children’s sweater embodied all three of these challenges for me.

Knit in BC Garn’s Bio Shetland, a new yarn for me, I detail below my experience knitting two-colour colourwork and working a sailor collar in the knitted fabric.

Enjoy!

Andrea - Loom & Spindle


PROJECT: Child and Mam

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-7.jpg

INTENTION

Knit the Child and Mam sweater and explore:

  • Working with a Shetland style yarn

  • Working two-colour colourwork flat

  • Sailor collar construction in the knitted fabric

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-1-1.jpg

SKILLS

  • Casting on and off

  • Knitting flat and in the round

  • Reading colourwork charts

  • Increasing and decreasing

  • Short row shaping

  • Two-colour colourwork worked flat

TOOLS

  • Knitting needles – 3.25 mm (US 3) and 3.75 mm (US 5) circular needles.
    I used Chiaogoo Spin Bamboo Interchangables.

MATERIALS

 

PATTERN

The Child and Mam (Child) pattern was published by Junko Okamoto in September 2015 and is available for free download at Ravelry.

Pattern available for sizes 3, 4 and 5 years old.

I knit a size 4, finished chest circumference 102.5cm (40.3’’)

PROCESS

YARN SELECTION

  • The red on white styling of Junko’s original version is what really drew me to this project.

  • To recreate the look with one of our shop yarns I sampled BC Garn’s Bio Shetland, a rustic Shetland style yarn built for colourwork.

  • I used the colourways Sheep White, a lightly heathered natural shade, and the eye-popping Cherry Red. 

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-16.JPG

COLOURWORK

  • Having swatched to determine gauge and needle size, I began the project as the pattern directs and worked the collar using the two contrasting colours.

  • Working the colourwork flat, I paid close attention to maintaining an even tension particularly when working the purl-side of the fabric, and neatly interlocked the two contrasting yarns at the edge of the patterned area.

  • The chart was clear, but I did trip up on the chevron pattern where the centre section has five rows and the outer sections have four. Having missed that fifth row I quickly realised my mistake when the following row was misaligned, I was able to rip back and correct it without issue.

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-4.jpg

CONSTRUCTION

  • The pattern was knit top-down in one piece combining elements that were either worked flat or in-the-round.

  • I did find it hard to visualise how the collar and neck shaping would come together. I put my faith in the pattern and continued working as the pattern directed.

  • Junko details some clever short row shaping for the left and right sides of the neck. These two elements eventually join at the front with an overlap of fabric, a nice detail.

  • More short row shaping raised the back neck for a comfortable fit.

  • I must admit that I didn’t tackle the Japanese short rows as suggested, instead I used the wrap-and-turn technique achieving the same outcome. I’ll have to investigate this new technique for next time.

  • Knitting the remainder of the garment was quite straight forward and came together without problem.

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-14.jpg
Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-5.jpg

FINISHING

To finish, the sweater was immersed in a bath of cool water for around 10 minutes, the water was drained, and the sweater pressed between towels to remove the excess. The piece was pinned out on a blocking matt, attention given to shaping the sweater and aligning the colourwork.

Once dry the gauge measured at: 

  • 20 stitches over 10cm (4'')

  • 32 rows over 10cm (4'')

  • Chest circumference, 102.5cm (40.3’’) 

Total meterage:

  • Approx. 313m (342y).

  • The finished garment weighed just 95g (3.35oz)!

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-11.jpg
Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-3.jpg

INSIGHTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

Yarn

  • Bio Shetland is a toothy yarn perfect for colourwork.

  • It produced a light and airy fabric with a rustic hand-feel.

  • The subtle grey heather in the natural shade gives the garment a rustic character.

  • Though Bio Shetland is a lighter yarn than what was originally used in the pattern I had no trouble achieving gauge.

Colourwork

  • The colourwork chart was clear and easy to follow.

  • The classic red on white palette definitely makes this a standout piece.

  • The colourwork is limited to the collar section making it a great first colourwork project.

Construction

  • The short row shaping was really interesting and not something I’d tried before for a collar construction.

  • It definitely helped that I was already familiar with the short-row technique, I wouldn’t say it was impossible if you’re giving it a go for the first time.

Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-2.jpg

FINAL THOUGHTS

Overall, this is a great design that worked up relatively quickly.

The yarn was great on yardage, the final count coming in under what the pattern suggested.

I love the sailor collar, such a unique design element. It would be perfect for any little sailors in your life.

And if you were thinking you’d like one too, Junko also has an adult version. And yes, it’s FREE. Thanks, Junko!


THANK YOU FOR READING!

Would you like to save this project for later?

Add it to your Ravelry favourites HERE.


Knitting Child and Mam (Child) in Bio Shetland?

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Size 3 years - MC: 2 skeins, CC: 1 Skein

  • Size 4 years - MC: 2 skeins, CC: 1 Skein

  • Size 5 years - MC: 3 skeins, CC: 1 Skein

Yarn Kit | Child and Mam
from $35.70
Size:
Kit Colour:
Add To Cart
 

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Child and Mam (Child) - Pattern By Junko Okamoto - Studio Project by Loom & Spindle-8.jpg

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